Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Seven

Once I had successfully created a single Dovetail joint, the next was to make a through D/T. This involved similar cutting techniques, but very different marking out initially. Below shows all the measurements in one diagram. These are then explained in the step by step instructions.

Step 1:

I first cut the board into two sections, and by using a plane and shooting board, smoothed off the edge so it was completely square.

Above: Shooting board being used to plane square edge

Step 2:


Once I had planed both pieces I then began to mark out the tails. To begin I measured 2mm in from both sides, as this would be the width of the pins on the other board, and any smaller would mean they would snap off. I then made a cut line all the way round the piece of wood, using the thickness of the piece of wood. Finally using a ruler, measure across the piece of wood until you can easily divide that by the number of tails you require. As I wanted four tails, I measured 120mm across, and then marked every 30mm.

Above: measuring and marking every 30mm.
Starting from 10mm as the end of the ruler may not be accurate

Step 3:


Once you have marked on the required distances for your tails, use a Try Square to draw them up to the edge of the wood.

Above: Lines meet the edge of board and cut line
is clearly visible

Step 4:

Then I marked on each side of this line 1mm, as this is where the pins will end.

Above: 1mm has been marked either side of the line.

Step 5:

I then used the Dovetail Marker to draw the angled lines from each 1mm marked points across the top edge of the board, and also from the 4mm lines. Mark all waste which is to be removed. I then used my D/T saw, and coping saw to remove as much waste between the tails as possible.

Above: Tails are clearly marked.

Step 6:

Then using different sized chisels, I removed the remainder of the waste, and used these to mark out the pins on the edge of the other piece of wood.

Pairing down the joins to remove waste.

Step 7:

The image below shows that I have marked the pins by using the tails as a guide, and I then removed this with a D/T saw, coping saw and chisels.

Above: The pins marked out.

Above: The pins cut out and finished.

Step 8:

After some adjustment and pairing, this joint should fit together perfectly, and be at a true 90 degree angle.

Above: The finished joint.

After finishing the joint, I had time to reflect on how I felt it went. I was really pleased with the overall joint, especially the edge you can see in the photo above, however the other side of the joint would need to be clamped up to get a neat finish.

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Four

In this lesson I learnt about all the different types of Mortice and Tenon joints, and I have listed a few below:

After learning about these types of joints, we then began to cut our own Haunched Mortice and Tenon joint. This is the joint I have found the hardest so far. I cut both the Mortice and Tenon which I believed to be a good joint, and chisel the excess away with a Mortice chisel, leaving about two mm one way, and then rotating the chisel and going back the other way. However once put together, the wood was not at a 90 degree angle, so I tried to correct this angle resulting in the joint becoming very loose, and defiantly needs working on!

However I did get my Lie-Nielsen saw today, and it made sawing much easier compared to the previous saws, and therefore have purchased a larger, cross cut saw.