Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Thirteen

During this lesson I decided it was time to create the groove for the back and divider of the cabinet. I did this using the methods previously explained further ↓ the blog ;)

The main problem I had during this lesson was the fact there were only two combination planes, and I left mine at home :( . However I decided it would be better to go home and pick it up, rather then waste lesson time.

I also had to put on a wooden guard on the plane to stop it from marking the cabinet wood. The groove that I created was 4mm deep, and 6mm wide.

Wood attached to guard

Groove cut in wood ready for cupboard back

I then used a combination of chisels and a number 71 plane to create the divider groove. The biggest problem was tear out along the edge of the groove, but I learnt from the first one that I did and chisels deeper first. This meant that the second groove was much better. This groove was 16mm and 4mm deep.

Grooves complete

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Ten

I never realized how many different types of Dovetail joints there were, but I learnt another one today. This Dovetail Joint was a Mired Corner Dovetail.

This is very similar to the Through Dovetail, apart from (as the name says) mitered pins on each end. To help understand see below for diagrams of each piece of wood.

The Tail Board:

Above: Shows end of Tail Board with areas to cut out

Above: 3D image of Tail Board

The Pin Board:

Above: Shows end of Pin Board with areas to cut out

Above: 3D image of Pin Board

Above: Side view which will be the
same on each end of both boards

I think that aesthetically this is the best looking Dovetail Joint that I have made. It was very hard to understand how to create this joint initially, but with an example joint that I could take apart, I soon learned just how easily it really is. The hardest part of joint was getting the mitre correct on both pieces of wood, and therefore getting it to joint squarely.

 I will add some photos later, as they are on a different camera ;) .

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Seven

Once I had successfully created a single Dovetail joint, the next was to make a through D/T. This involved similar cutting techniques, but very different marking out initially. Below shows all the measurements in one diagram. These are then explained in the step by step instructions.

Step 1:

I first cut the board into two sections, and by using a plane and shooting board, smoothed off the edge so it was completely square.

Above: Shooting board being used to plane square edge

Step 2:


Once I had planed both pieces I then began to mark out the tails. To begin I measured 2mm in from both sides, as this would be the width of the pins on the other board, and any smaller would mean they would snap off. I then made a cut line all the way round the piece of wood, using the thickness of the piece of wood. Finally using a ruler, measure across the piece of wood until you can easily divide that by the number of tails you require. As I wanted four tails, I measured 120mm across, and then marked every 30mm.

Above: measuring and marking every 30mm.
Starting from 10mm as the end of the ruler may not be accurate

Step 3:


Once you have marked on the required distances for your tails, use a Try Square to draw them up to the edge of the wood.

Above: Lines meet the edge of board and cut line
is clearly visible

Step 4:

Then I marked on each side of this line 1mm, as this is where the pins will end.

Above: 1mm has been marked either side of the line.

Step 5:

I then used the Dovetail Marker to draw the angled lines from each 1mm marked points across the top edge of the board, and also from the 4mm lines. Mark all waste which is to be removed. I then used my D/T saw, and coping saw to remove as much waste between the tails as possible.

Above: Tails are clearly marked.

Step 6:

Then using different sized chisels, I removed the remainder of the waste, and used these to mark out the pins on the edge of the other piece of wood.

Pairing down the joins to remove waste.

Step 7:

The image below shows that I have marked the pins by using the tails as a guide, and I then removed this with a D/T saw, coping saw and chisels.

Above: The pins marked out.

Above: The pins cut out and finished.

Step 8:

After some adjustment and pairing, this joint should fit together perfectly, and be at a true 90 degree angle.

Above: The finished joint.

After finishing the joint, I had time to reflect on how I felt it went. I was really pleased with the overall joint, especially the edge you can see in the photo above, however the other side of the joint would need to be clamped up to get a neat finish.

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Six

Today I used the Dovetail Marker made in the previous lesson to make a full dovetail joint. To begin I marked out the tail, using the normal tools such as the Marking Gauge, Marking knife and also the new D/T Marker. To use the D/T Marker, it is as simple as holding against the edge of the wood till the angle fits neatly, and drawing a line on either side of the marker, as shown below.

Once this was marked out, we cut off all the waste, include the half off of the back to just leave the tail.

 This was then used to make the slot where the tail would sit in the other piece of wood. This is done so even if the actual cut line is slightly off the marked cutting line, then it will still slot neatly into the joint. Once again to cut off all the waste I put the wood in the vice at an angle, which is how I find it easier to cut angled lines, and then cut straight down.

Once I had cut, chisel and smoothed of both section with a hand router, I put both pieces together, and found they came to be the best joint I had made so far.

The join (Although not fully pushed together)

 I was really pleased, and as I had some spare time I even made myself two bench hooks! This is because there isn't many in the workshop, and I had been using a left handed on, which made cutting difficult.

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Five

This lesson was introduced that I was going to be making Dovetail Joints. These joints are one of the most decorative joints I feel you can make, but first I had to learn how to mark them out. I also learnt about a new tool, which is called the sliding bevel. This is used to set to a certain angle, and then use it to either draw or mark an angled line.

Above: Sliding Bevel

To produce the Dovetail joint we first had to work out the correct angle of the tails. This is either 1/8 for hardwoods, or 1/6 for softwoods.

Step 1:

Using a Try Square, draw a straight line up a scrap piece of wood, up to either 8cm (Hardwoods) or 6cm (Softwoods).

Step 2:

Measure 1 cm along the bottom of the board away from the existing line.

Step 3:

Join the the two lines together using a straight rule.

Step 4:


Using the Sliding Bevel take the angle from the wood.

After this, we were told to use this angle to make a dovetail marker. This allows you to quickly and easily mark dovetails on any piece of wood, without the need to use the Sliding Bevel.

Below I have included the dimensions and 3d view of the D/T marker.

This went really well and I completed the D/T Marker in good time, with no errors. I also had a chance to use my new saw, which was a cross cut saw and it was much easier to use.

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Four

In this lesson I learnt about all the different types of Mortice and Tenon joints, and I have listed a few below:

After learning about these types of joints, we then began to cut our own Haunched Mortice and Tenon joint. This is the joint I have found the hardest so far. I cut both the Mortice and Tenon which I believed to be a good joint, and chisel the excess away with a Mortice chisel, leaving about two mm one way, and then rotating the chisel and going back the other way. However once put together, the wood was not at a 90 degree angle, so I tried to correct this angle resulting in the joint becoming very loose, and defiantly needs working on!

However I did get my Lie-Nielsen saw today, and it made sawing much easier compared to the previous saws, and therefore have purchased a larger, cross cut saw.

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Three

In this lesson I made the Bridle Joint. This joint involved similar tools as the previous lesson, however there was also the Mortice Gauge. This was used to mark out thirds and mark out two lines equally on a piece of wood. I also learnt a new technique of sawing, which is shown in the image below:

Cutting this way allows you to cut much straighter, and with much more control of the saw and the cut.

I also learnt about how to set up and use a hand router. This is hand router or "Router plane", has a small cutting blade at a 90 degree angle, and allows you to smooth off joints and make sharp edges. This was much more accurate and quicker then using a chisel like I did previously, and was so useful I went and purchased my own second hand one.

Overall the joint went really well, however I quickly learnt to hold the Mortice Gauge tighter, as it kept jumping and following the grain. Also I had to pair down along the cutting line as it was to tight, so next time I will cut closer to the line.

Hand Production Techniques - Lesson Two

So today was the first day in the workshop, and it was the halving joint we found out that we was going to be making as our first joint. We were going to be using spare pieces of wood to practise carrying out a variety of joints, and this was the first one.

The basic shape of the Halving Joint is shown in a diagram below:

This idea is to cut out sections on each side of the wood, and then they slot into place. To begin with, I learnt about the tools which wood be required:

. Marking gauge: Has one pin and is used to mark out a single line
. Marking Knife: Used instead out a pencil to add marking and cutting lines to a piece of wood
. Tenon Saw (Cross Cut): Used to cut against the grain
. Chisels: To remove waste and to flatten bottom of joints

Step 1:

Mark out the two joints on the face sides of each piece of wood. Mark out the waste.

Step 2:

Cut down the WASTE SIDE of each line, and one in the middle to make it easier to remove the waste later.

Do this on both pieces.

Step 3:

Using a chisel remove waste, and flatten off the bottom of both sides.

Step 4:

Pair down the sides until you have a perfect fit using a block of wood as a guide, and fit the joint together.

Overall the joint went reasonably well, however there were a few things which I felt need to be improved upon for the future. One problem I found was that my marking knife was not sharp enough, which meant it was hard to see my cut lines. Also I was not holding my finger out towards the blade, resulting in lack of control in the direction of cutting, and some of my cuts were at a slight angle. Finally I used the wrong face on one piece, which didn't matter for this, however would have meant that some aesthetic values and accuracy of the joints good become lost in a final piece of work.